The day didn’t start very promisingly when we left the hostel. The heavens opened their floodgates and we struggled along the road through the pelting rain. On the way, we met up again with our pilgrim friend Stefan, with whom we had walked stages of the Camino together since Colinas de Arriba. It almost felt like a small hiking family.
There are at least two versions of this day. Stefan found the rain and the mixed weather a real challenge and later described it as one of the worst days on the Camino. For us, on the other hand, it was the best day of the whole trip.
Once we had left the road behind us, our path led down into the valley along a wonderful hiking trail. The heavy rain from the morning was now just an occasional drizzle and the landscape seemed like something from another world. Flowers bloomed at the edge of the path and the wafts of mist that drifted through the hills and valleys lent the scenery an almost mystical atmosphere.
The imposing dam wall and the lake
Suddenly we could see a massive dam wall in the distance, behind which a large reservoir stretched out. The Embalse de Grandas de Salime is not only impressively large, but is nestled in a picturesque landscape, which on this day almost looked like a painting due to the low-hanging clouds and humid air.
The descent there led us down to the road, which we had to follow for a while. But the spectacular scenery made up for everything. Particularly impressive was a passage through the rocks that led to a covered viewpoint. We took a well-earned break there and enjoyed the unique view of the lake and the surrounding mountains.
Photos from the hike to Grandads de Salime
Grandas de Salime and the Museo Etnográfico
After the strenuous ascent along the road, we finally reached Grandas de Salime, a quiet and charming village known above all for its historical significance and its natural surroundings. In addition to the famous reservoir, the village is home to the Museo Etnográfico de Grandas de Salime, one of the oldest and most extensive ethnographic museums in Asturias.
This museum offers a fascinating insight into the life of past centuries in the region. It displays traditional crafts, agricultural tools and everyday objects that give a vivid impression of how people once lived and worked here. For pilgrims and tourists, it is a real treasure trove of Asturian culture and history. Unfortunately, it was already closed when we got there.
An unexpected highlight in the evening
In the evening, we found out that a music festival had taken place the night before, which is why the restaurants didn’t open until later. However, it was worth the wait: we discovered an inconspicuous bar which, from the outside, gave little indication of the culinary surprise that awaited us there. We opted for a vegan burger, which turned out to be a real treat. Although it wasn’t exactly cheap, its unforgettable taste more than made up for it – just thinking about it makes my mouth water again.
The ambience of the bar was also something special: it shone in the charming style of the 70s and had been family-owned for just as long. A place with history where we immediately felt at home.
A sad incident in Grandas de Salime
Unfortunately, the village also has a sad pilgrimage history: In 2015, an American pilgrim was the victim of a violent crime here. This murder shook the entire pilgrimage community and led to discussions about safety on the Camino. It is a tragic reminder that even on a path that stands for peace and community, darkness can lurk.
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