This very varied hike of about 24 km starts in Ilsenburg in the Harz. It first takes us uphill to a series of crags with great views and later leads back down into the valley along the romantic little river Ilse. For those interested in culture, there are many information boards with quotes by Heinrich Heine from “Die Harzreise” (The Harz Journey) of 1824, when he walked sections of this route on his way up the Brocken. There are also 7 stamp points of the Harzer Wandernadel* along the way. An eighth stamp point can be reached with a short detour.
We start our hike near the ranger station of the Harz National Park administration in the small and charming Harz town of Ilsenburg. There is a large car park here where we can leave the car free of charge. At first we walk along the road into the valley. After a little more than half a kilometre, the well house of the Prinzess Ilse spring is on the right-hand side. A path leads past this sandstone building on the right. The narrow path first takes us quite steeply uphill and then winds fairly level around the hill above Ilsenburg. Because of the dense forest, however, there is hardly any chance to look down on the town from here.
After about 750 metres we come to a small fork. We choose the small, narrow path that branches off sharply to the right and leads steeply up the hill, partly in switchbacks. The last few metres of this climb are secured with wooden steps and a handrail. Once this last hurdle has been cleared, you are back on a wide forest road. We follow it to the right for a few metres. At the next fork we take the left-hand path, which leads us gently uphill to the Ilseklippe.
The first of 7 stamp points is at the Ilseklippe
At the Ilseklippe you will find the Waldgasthaus Ilsestein, a forest inn that is a very popular destination at weekends. This is also where the first of the 7 Harzer Wandernadel stamp points on our hike is located. We follow the small path behind the restaurant, which leads us to the 474 m high granite rock, from which we can enjoy a great view of Ilsenburg, the Harz foreland and – on the other side – the Brocken.
In the late Middle Ages there was a castle here on the Ilsestein. A board in front of the inn tells you about its history.
“The Ilsestein is a tremendous granite rock that rises long and boldly from the depths. On three sides it is enclosed by the high, forest-covered mountains, but the fourth, the north side, is open, and from here one looks down on Ilsenburg lying below and the Ilse, far out into the lowlands. On the tower-like summit of the rock stands a large iron cross, and at a pinch there is still room for four human feet.”
From Heinrich Heine’s Harz Journey
We walk back along the small path and, at the main trail, follow it to the right towards the Paternosterklippe. We reach it after a short while and leave the Ilse valley here for now to continue on to the Plessenburg. At the inn there you will find some beautiful large sycamore maples as well as the second stamp point of the Harzer Wandernadel. We cross the grounds and continue at the forester’s lodge opposite in the direction of the Wolfsklippen. After about 3 km on rather wide and level forest roads we reach a small side path to these crags, which are almost completely enclosed by trees. There is another stamp point at the Wolfsklippen as well.
Back on the wide track we continue to the “Molkenhausstern”, which we reach after about 2 km. At this prominent junction of trails there is a shelter that again houses a stamp point. At this point you have the option of shortening the hike and returning to the Ilse valley from here. We, however, continue on the opposite side of the junction and take a narrower path again, which now leads us briskly further uphill. After one and a half kilometres we reach the Zeterklippen at an elevation of 830 metres. Here we walk past the shelter in a sharp left-hand bend and follow this path for about another 800 metres. A sign now shows us the way to the Große Zeterklippen. We follow the narrow and steep trail that leads us through countless blueberry bushes and small granite boulders up to a clearing.
Here at the foot of the crags is a very nice spot to take a break. The crags themselves can be climbed via a short but steep iron ladder. Up here you have a fantastic all-round view of the eastern Harz and the Harz foreland, the Ilse valley and the Brocken, from which we are separated by only about 2 km as the crow flies and about 200 metres of elevation.
After an extended break we continue past the crags and a stamp point on a narrow path towards the Ilse. The wide track that follows leads us to the Ilse and follows the little river downhill towards Ilsenburg.
This, then, is the Ilse, the lovely, sweet Ilse. She runs through the blessed Ilse valley, on both sides of which the mountains gradually rise higher, and these are, down to their feet, mostly covered with beeches, oaks and ordinary leafy shrubs, no longer with firs and other conifers. … Yes, the legend is true, the Ilse is a princess who runs down the mountain laughing and blooming. How her white robe of foam gleams in the sunshine! How her silver bosom ribbons flutter in the wind! How her diamonds sparkle and flash! From Heinrich Heine’s Harz Journey
After a short while we reach the hidden Ilse. In this area you can hear the rushing and gurgling of the water – but you cannot see it! Here the water has carved its way between mighty granite blocks – so deep that the course of the river can no longer be seen. Our route continues along the Ilse until just before a shelter. We turn left here and follow the path to the Stempelbuche – as the name (“stamp beech”) suggests (although the place was already called that before), there is another stamp point here.
Via a narrow path we now make our way to the Bremer Hütte. Here, too, we find a stamp point – the last one on our hike. We now walk down into the valley on the very pleasant Heinrich-Heine-Weg – a narrow path – sometimes to the left, sometimes to the right of the Ilse, passing the Ilse Falls, where the stream tumbles down the valley over a multitude of boulders.
This path is lined with many boards bearing quotes by the poet Heinrich Heine and thus makes a lovely end to this varied and highly recommended hike. At the end of the path we walk a little further along the road to the car park.
