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Our hike starts at the Harz National Park ranger station in Ilsenburg. There is free parking there, a small visitor exhibition and a short nature trail outside with information on the plants and geology of the area.
From the car park we follow the road south-west into the Ilse valley. At first there are still a few hotels, guesthouses and holiday homes along the way, with old beech, oak and pine trees around them. Once the valley narrows and darkens and the buildings are behind us, the path turns right at the Zanthierplatz into a small side valley. Watch for the signs to the Westerbergklippen (1.9 km); the path climbs briskly and steadily through dense forest alongside a small spring. After a while the high forest thins out and consists mainly of smaller spruces.
At the end of the small valley we turn right and follow a wide forest track for a short stretch. After only about 100 metres we leave it again and turn right onto a narrow path that leads straight to the Westerbergklippe (about 0.5 km). The crag can be climbed and is the highest point of our hike at 529 metres, with an impressive view across the Rhon and Ilse valleys to the Brocken.
This specially protected area, the Rhon-Westerberg nature reserve, holds many oaks and pines whose combination forms a rare type of woodland.
We carry on to a junction with a small shelter and a Harzer Wandernadel checkpoint. A short side path leads a few metres to a large granite monolith, the Froschfelsen, which — as the name suggests — is supposed to resemble a giant frog (a little imagination certainly helps here).
We return to the shelter and follow the forest track to the right towards “Försters Tränke”. From there we continue right along the forest track heading north. We cross an area of large spruce stands that were being felled on a big scale when we walked here in the summer of 2008. After a few hundred metres we turn left onto the Windenweg, which brings us to another small shelter. Here we swing right and leave the forest track for a path that drops very steeply at first.
This steep path, which can be a little awkward in wet weather, takes us past the Rocksteinklippe down into the Sune valley. After the first 100 metres of descent over a short distance, the path drops slowly and steadily back towards Ilsenburg. Halfway along we pass the remains of an old clay mill, with an information board covering its history and how it worked. Once we reach the first houses of Ilsenburg we follow the signs to the right back into the Ilse valley. This path runs along the edge of the village and gives a nice view over it in places. After about 1.2 kilometres we are back at our starting point at the ranger station.
This varied hike, mostly on small woodland tracks and paths, sees relatively few walkers. Some sections are quite steep and call for sure footing and decent fitness. After heavy rain and in spring, the path through the Sune valley above the clay mill can be wet and muddy, and therefore a little awkward.
Additional information about the hike
The Harzer Wandernadel booklet can be bought for a nominal EUR 2 at many tourist information offices and national park stations in the Harz. You collect stamps from around 200 checkpoints across the region in it. Besides the keepsake value, a certain number of stamps earns you a hiking badge, available in several grades starting with bronze from eight stamps.
More information about the Harzer Wandernadel is available at: www.harzer-wandernadel.de
The Zanthierplatz is named after chief forester Zanthier (1717-1778), who worked here and is regarded as a pioneer of modern, sustainable forestry. A memorial stone commemorates his work.
Map: Ilsenburg to the Froschfelsen
Pictures: Ilsenburg to the Froschfelsen